The Baselworld watch and jewelry fair, to begin Thursday in the Swiss city of Basel, will be remembered as both the first of its kind — and the last.
The first because, for the first time in memory, no Swatch Group brands are registered to attend; its chief executive, Nick Hayek, announced last July that he would invest in other activities the million it reportedly costs him to exhibit the group’s 18 brands at Basel.
The holes left by the likes of Harry Winston, Omega and Longines aren’t being filled: Swatch Group’s floor space has been reassigned as a news center. (About 500 brands were registered for the fair this year, roughly a third of the total number that attended five years ago.)
And this is the last time Baselworld will be held in March. In 2020, it is scheduled to follow the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as S.I.H.H, in Geneva for a doubleheader spanning a 10-day period in April and May.
Despite the exhibitor drop-off, many of the big names are still banking on Baselworld. Here are some of the timepieces that they are to present, as well as some of the pieces introduced by brands hoping to make headway on their own this spring.
While much of the talk at Baselworld surely will be about absentees, the show’s organizers will be clinging to the fact that its other big-name brands are staying put — at least for now. Rolex remains (although saying nothing about its new releases before the show), while Patek Philippe, Chanel and the leading lights of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, including Bulgari and Zenith, also appear to be committed.
PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5172G
Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5170 hand-wound chronograph, first seen in 2010, has become a collectors’ favorite but it has now run its course, to be replaced by this evolution. In design terms the new Ref. 5172G is a retrospective step, assuming an even more vintage-looking appearance than its predecessor. Note the vintage chronograph pushers, the syringe hands, the three-tier Art Deco lugs and — seen in a third dimension — the sapphire crystal “box” glass, a visual throwback to the plexiglass crystals of old, recently adopted by a raft of watch brands. In fact, this latest from Patek is very on-trend: The choice of a petrol blue dial and strap tapping into a fast-developing theme in watch design. The new model is a little more practical, too — in a change from the 5170, the hands and numerals are now coated in lume. Inside its 41-millimeter white gold case is Patek’s lauded hand-wound chronograph caliber, a movement now notching 10 years in service.
ZENITH DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 CARBON
In a year of significant watchmaking anniversaries, the half-century of Zenith’s El Primero movement merits particular focus. Unboxed in 1969, the high-frequency, 36,000 vibrations-per-hour chronograph has powered watches made by Rolex, TAG Heuer and Dior — but it is very much Zenith’s creation and the jewel in its crown. Much of the noise around its 50th anniversary came in January, but the celebration will reverberate around Baselworld, too. One of the highlights will be this carbon-cased version of the Defy, a 1970s-inspired design that Zenith has said epitomizes what its marketing calls its “neo-futuristic, architectural design ethos.” The movement fueling this model is the updated El Primero 21 caliber, which actually beats at an even higher rate of 360,000 vibrations-per-hour, or 50 hertz, making it capable of measuring time mechanically to the nearest one-one hundredth of a second, and also the world’s most accurate chronograph caliber produced in series.
While Chanel mourns the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, its longtime creative director, the house has put the invention of another of its former lodestars in the spotlight at Basel this year. The androgynous J12 was designed by Jacques Helleu, who spent more than 40 years at Chanel before his death in 2007. His sailing-inspired, all-black (and later all-white), all-ceramic watch put Chanel’s now 32-year-old watchmaking division on the map. This year, with the hand of Chanel’s Studio de Création Horlogerie director, Arnaud Chastaingt, on the tiller, it’s been updated. By the company’s own admission, the redesign is far from wholesale — even on close inspection the differences aren’t easy to spot. Refinements include a thinner bezel and crown, and redesigned numerals and indexes. More visibly (if only from the reverse), and arguably more significantly, is the fact that this is the first Chanel watch to be powered by an automatic movement created by Kenissi; the house acquired a stake in the new movement manufacturer in January. Chronometer certification and a power reserve of 70 hours are the headlines but, otherwise, the J12 is still very much the J12.
BULGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI ROSE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
Bulgari’s snake-inspired Serpenti motif appears in jewelry and handbags but it comes to life most vividly as a watch: The version with a wraparound bracelet that tapers from swollen snakehead to poised tail is one of the most recognizable forms in women’s watch design. This year Bulgari is releasing what it is calling the third generation of the Serpenti watch, the Serpenti Seduttori. It features a drop-head case design picked up from the 2010 Serpenti Tubogas but the 18-karat rose gold bracelet is an entirely fresh addition to the collection. Visually, the repeating pattern created by its hexagonal links is clearly inspired by snakeskin scales, while on the wrist those links become fluid and, one imagines, very wearable. All the new watches house quartz movements. This one has a 33-millimeter rose gold case decorated with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds and, as a finishing touch, a Roman cabochon-cut pink rubellite set into the crown.
Baselworld’s rich brand tapestry continues to be its appeal. Alongside the million-dollar one-off watches that pop up from time to time, there will be a gem for just a few hundred. Vintage design continues to dominate across the spectrum, as does a focus on material and mechanical improvements. Regardless of behind-the-scene industry politics, consumers remain spoiled for choice.
TAG HEUER AUTAVIA
The second revival of the Autavia in as many years includes a whole collection, rather than a single piece, as in 2017. The design returns with a new look and an updated movement featuring TAG Heuer’s Isograph carbon-composite hairspring, first seen in the experimental Nanograph introduced in January. The company says it delivers improved performance because the material is antimagnetic and “virtually unaffected by gravity and shock.”
BREITLING PREMIER B01 CHRONOGRAPH 42 NORTON EDITION
Breitling’s evolution under new ownership (the European private equity firm CVC Capital Partners) and new management (Georges Kern as chief executive) continues to position the brand as more “urban chic” than “professional tool watch.” A partnership with the historic British motorcycle company Norton was announced last spring, and this year there’s a watch to go with the collaboration. It sits in the Premier line, Breitling’s new and most accessible design, has cafe racer looks and houses the brand’s own B01 chronograph caliber.
CHOPARD L.U.C FLYING T TWIN
Chopard’s latest high-end watch is its first flying tourbillon (an invisibly anchored tourbillon that appears to float). It’s automatic and has a stop-seconds function, a device that stops the watch running for accurate time setting — still relatively rare in tourbillons. The “twin” in the name refers to two barrels, which combine to deliver a 65-hour power reserve. The watch has a slimline 40-millimeter case made of Fairmined gold and a guilloché dial. Only 50 will be made.
CARL F. BUCHERER HERITAGE BICOMPAX ANNUAL
Carl F. Bucherer is the latest Swiss watch company to turn to a mid-1950s archive piece for inspiration. In this new model, heritage cues like its “bicompax,” or twin-counter dial, vintage numerals and syringe hands sit alongside a more contemporary bicolor case and an automatic chronograph movement with an annual calendar. The date will need correcting only once a year (at the end of February). There are to be two versions, each limited to 888 pieces.
BELL & ROSS BR03-92 MA-1
The French company Bell & Ross continues to walk the line where watchmaking and fashion meet, this year injecting its square-cased BR03 pilot’s watch with a dose of American military-style cachet by naming a model after the Dobbs Industries’ MA-1 flight — or “bomber” — jacket of 1958. The link is reflected in the detailing: a dark-khaki ceramic case, a stenciled sandwich dial with orange lume beneath, and a reversible khaki and orange calfskin strap.
GRAFF GYROGRAFF ENDANGERED SPECIES
Despite the technical qualities of a watch with a double-axis tourbillon and a spherical moon phase, it is the diamond-setting of Graff’s unique GyroGraff that grabs the attention. The layered elephant motif is built up with diamonds and white and black gold, using a technique Graff is calling “diamond-marquetry,” in which individually cut and set diamonds combine to create an image. Each of the 70 diamonds on the dial is a different size and shape, and the smallest, the elephant’s white-gold eye, is just 0.9 millimeter in diameter.
GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE MASTERPIECE THIN DRESS LIMITED EDITION
It’s 20 years since Grand Seiko introduced its Spring Drive technology, widely regarded as one of the most significant developments in recent watchmaking history. This anniversary model, a hand-wound piece promising an 84-hour power reserve and accuracy to plus or minus 15 seconds a month, continues the story. The “snowflake” finish of the dial and platinum case is inspired by the frosty climate in the Japanese region where some Grand Seiko watches are produced. Only 30 will be made.
GUCCI G-TIMELESS AUTOMATIC
Androgyny is a style watchword at the moment, and it appears to have inspired Gucci’s unisex G-Timeless, which is to have eight new models this year. This one is a bicolor steel and yellow gold piece with a blue lapis stone dial decorated with bees, one of the Italian luxury house’s recurring motifs. Inside the 38-millimeter case is an automatic movement made by the Swiss movement specialists Sellita.
HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION FERRARI GT
To date, Hublot’s Ferrari partnership has been all about Formula One. That changes this year with the release of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, the first Hublot watch linked to the Italian marque’s road cars and the first Classic Fusion linked to Ferrari. There are three versions: one in titanium, another in Hublot’s proprietary King Gold and this model in 3-D carbon, made of what the brand’s marketing describes as a lightweight “polymer matrix with three-dimensional fibers” that Hublot introduced last year.
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TANGENTE SPORT NEOMATIK 42 DATE
In the early 1990s, Nomos’s Bauhaus-inspired Tangente was one of the German watchmaker’s four initial models — and now it is the brand’s best seller. This year the model has been given a bulked-up sister watch with a case water-resistant to 1,000 feet and the company’s first metal bracelet, a Teutonic-looking piece made of 145 parts and assembled by hand. It’s powered by Nomos’s DUW 6101 automatic caliber.
ORIS AQUIS GMT DATE
One of the few remaining mainstream independent watch companies, Oris continues to produce high-spec entry-level luxury watches. Its latest stainless steel mechanical diver’s watch picks up on the trend for diver’s watches that show three time zones at once; zones two and three are shown via a central hand and a 24-hour scale on a rotating bezel. That bezel is made of scratch-resistant black ceramic, and the watch is water-resistant to 1,000 feet.
MARCH LA.B MANSART
The Franco-American company March LA.B operates some distance from the conventional heart of the watch industry, designing its retro-looking pieces in Los Angeles and producing them in France. The latest of these is the 34-millimeter Mansart, named for the noted 17th-century French architect. Small by today’s standards, yet unmistakably masculine, it’s powered by a Japanese Miyota automatic movement.
Swatch Group’s Baselworld exit has dominated the headlines since last summer, but it is far from alone in its decision to plow a different furrow in a bid to save some cash and sow its seed more effectively. So now there is a new cohort of brands fighting for attention beyond Baselworld’s giant halls; some will find a spot but others may find one hard to come by.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER APOLLO 11 50TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION
It’s hard to look beyond the 50th anniversary of the lunar landings and the voyage of Omega’s Speedmaster Professional to the moon for most romantic watch story of the year. The limited-edition Moonwatch created to mark the moment is cast in a new metal called Moonrise gold and powered by a new hand-wound Master Chronometer caliber. Only 1,014 will be made.
The latest collection of ladies watches and accessories from the Parisian house of Chaumet is named Boléro. The watches are defined by a seamless rounded bezel, a spartan dial and a supple, paved solid-gold bracelet. They are available in either yellow or rose gold, with a 30 millimeter or 36 millimeter case, and with a choice of a black or white dial. The larger of the two, pictured here, has an automatic movement.
MONDAINE OFFICIAL SWISS RAILWAYS WATCH CLASSIC
While the familiar proportions of Mondaine’s new 40-millimeter steel watch will do little to make it stand out from those pieces made by the company since it acquired the license to reproduce Hans Hilfiker’s 1944 Swiss Railways clock in 1986, they do bear the specific responsibility of marking the 75th anniversary of that classic design. Those midcentury looks are as relevant as ever, as is the secondary strap made of recycled plastic bottles supplied with this watch.
The British brand Bremont has been a military favorite for most of its short life (it made its first watch in 2007). And those credentials have been given an official seal of approval by the brand’s new partnership with Britain’s Ministry of Defence and its armed forces. There’s a watch for the army and navy, and this piece, a monopusher chronograph, for the Royal Air Force.
LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR SPIN TIME AIR
Louis Vuitton’s collection of high-end watches starts to feel familiar — it’s been 10 years since the Tambour Spin Time was introduced. Despite this, its signature jumping hours function, indicated by suspended spinning boxes that mark the hours, is no less remarkable now than it was a decade ago. Seven pieces mark the 10-year rotation, including this 42.5-millimeter white-gold diamond-set women’s piece.
RADO TRUE THINLINE MY BIRD LIMITED EDITION
Rado has drafted the Russian artist and designer Evgenia Miro to lend a distinctive touch to this polished blue ceramic True Thinline. The 5-millimeter-thick watch’s dial and bracelet are laser-engraved with a feather motif, said by Ms. Miro to symbolize “wisdom, nobility and spirituality” and the lightness of ceramic. The case back is digitally printed with a “lucky bird.” Only 1,001 pieces will be made.
PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE BRONZO
Given the scheduling change next year, the tradition of brands loyal to S.I.H.H. or Baselworld jockeying for position during the rival show surely will die out. But for now, the S.I.H.H. stalwart Panerai is trying to steal a march on Baselworld with the news that it is adding a 5.7-ounce bronze watch to its newly subdivided Submersible line (formerly part of the Luminor collection). The model is a reminder that, in 2010, Panerai kick-started the now-familiar trend for bronze watches.B:
“【你】【是】【说】【赵】【崇】【南】【还】【没】【找】【到】【祁】【连】？”【姜】【茶】【忍】【痛】【不】【让】【自】【己】【叫】【出】【声】【来】，【单】【纯】【有】【些】【不】【习】【惯】【略】【带】【狠】【戾】【的】【农】【旎】。 “【怎】【么】？【被】【绑】【架】【不】【够】，【还】【打】【算】【亲】【自】【抓】【人】？”【农】【旎】【拂】【过】【她】【割】【出】【血】【印】【的】【伤】【口】，【语】【气】【阴】【沉】。【指】【尖】【故】【意】【勒】【紧】【雪】【白】【绷】【带】，【一】【层】【又】【一】【层】。 “【大】【叔】，【我】【就】【是】【单】【纯】【问】【问】。”【姜】【茶】【的】【圆】【脑】【袋】【深】【埋】，【她】【理】【解】【农】【旎】【生】【气】【的】【原】【因】。【虽】【然】【伤】
【沈】【洪】【斌】【之】【所】【以】【会】【提】【起】【考】【试】【成】【绩】，【自】【然】【是】【因】【为】【知】【道】【沈】【洛】【洛】【学】【习】【一】【向】【不】【行】，【而】【想】【借】【此】【打】【击】【一】【下】【她】，【以】【免】【得】【她】【太】【过】【骄】【傲】。 【可】【是】【他】【却】【忘】【记】【了】，【既】【然】【沈】【洛】【洛】【可】【以】【搞】【出】【这】【么】【多】【东】【西】【来】，【怎】【么】【可】【能】【还】【是】【原】【来】【那】【个】【学】【渣】？ 【因】【此】【当】【他】【听】【到】【沈】【洛】【洛】【一】【副】【随】【意】【的】【口】【气】【说】【自】【己】【考】【了】【全】【年】【级】48【名】【的】【时】【候】，【他】【根】【本】【没】【有】【反】【应】【过】【来】。 【所】【以】【他】
【作】【为】【现】【役】【联】【盟】【中】【的】【当】【红】【球】【星】，【杜】【兰】【特】【和】【伦】【纳】【德】【都】【已】【经】【用】【实】【际】【证】【明】【了】【自】【己】【的】【潜】【力】，【而】【且】【各】【自】【开】【花】，【手】【握】【多】【项】【荣】【誉】，【不】【过】2019【赛】【季】【过】【后】，【杜】【兰】【特】【就】【重】【获】【自】【由】，【勇】【士】【不】【再】【续】【约】，【他】【成】【为】【了】【自】【由】【球】【员】，【而】【伦】【纳】【德】【在】【今】【年】【同】【样】【也】【迎】【来】【了】【新】【东】【家】。【杜】【兰】【特】【和】【伦】【纳】【德】【都】【拿】【到】【了】【各】【自】【球】【队】【的】【高】【薪】【合】【同】，【也】【符】【合】【他】【们】【的】【身】【价】，【那】【么】【杜】【兰】【特】【和】【伦】【纳】【德】【这】【么】【强】，【如】【果】【两】【人】【进】【入】【自】【由】【市】【场】，【你】【会】【选】【择】【谁】？第091期新版跑狗图钓鱼网【余】【宇】【的】【意】【思】【就】【是】【将】【整】【个】【力】【量】【集】【中】【起】【来】，【对】【付】【幽】【帝】【和】【鬼】【界】【的】【人】。【至】【于】【星】【盟】，【禁】【地】【还】【有】【其】【他】【人】，【包】【括】【仙】【界】，【暂】【时】【先】【不】【管】。 【大】【家】【静】【静】【的】【听】【着】。 【他】【继】【续】【说】【道】“【我】【们】【现】【在】，【位】【于】【上】【古】【道】【场】【的】【巨】【城】，【不】【过】【二】【十】【个】【的】【样】【子】，【我】【们】【的】【人】【手】，【也】【多】【数】【在】【巨】【城】【内】。【他】【们】【第】【一】【拨】【的】【攻】【击】，【可】【能】【不】【是】【针】【对】【巨】【城】，【但】【不】【用】【理】【会】。 【我】【们】【的】【办】
【我】【们】【回】【到】【工】【作】【室】【的】【时】【候】，【率】【先】【冲】【进】【里】【面】【的】【安】【瑶】【惊】【喜】【地】【发】【出】【一】【声】“【姐】【夫】”【的】【喊】【声】，【让】【我】【的】【脑】【袋】【瞬】【间】【清】【醒】。 【我】【快】【走】【两】【步】【进】【入】【工】【作】【室】，【看】【到】【陆】【梓】【默】【正】【坐】【在】【接】【待】【桌】【前】【翻】【看】【杂】【志】。 【刚】【才】【还】【在】【安】【心】【工】【作】【的】【小】【米】【多】【仿】【佛】【受】【了】【什】【么】【惊】【吓】，【指】【着】【陆】【梓】【默】【结】【结】【巴】【巴】【的】【说】：“【你】【你】【是】【姐】【夫】【呀】，【你】【怎】【么】【不】【早】【说】？”【又】【转】【头】【很】【无】
… 【一】【年】【后】。 【许】【未】【来】【刚】【结】【束】【一】【场】【抗】【议】，【回】【到】【住】【处】【的】【时】【候】，【累】【得】【直】【接】【瘫】【在】【沙】【发】【上】，【连】【一】【根】【手】【指】【都】【不】【想】【动】【了】。 【偏】【偏】【电】【话】【铃】【声】【忽】【然】【间】【响】【了】【起】【来】，【她】【想】【要】【忽】【视】【的】，【却】【响】【个】【不】【停】，【不】【接】【听】【不】【罢】【休】【的】【架】【势】，【她】【嗷】【呜】【一】【声】，【伸】【出】【手】【去】【包】【包】【里】【摸】【索】，【拿】【出】【来】【后】，【看】【到】【屏】【幕】【上】【的】【来】【电】【显】【示】，【叹】【气】。 【随】【后】，【认】【命】【地】【接】【听】【了】【电】【话】，
【三】【个】【创】【始】【文】【明】【的】【行】【动】【虽】【然】【隐】【秘】，【却】【也】【瞒】【不】【过】【一】【直】【监】【视】【他】【们】【的】【华】【夏】【文】【明】，【甚】【至】【在】【他】【们】【内】【部】【早】【就】【打】【下】【了】【坚】【实】【的】【内】【应】。 【晋】【升】【中】【级】【文】【明】【的】【方】【法】【本】【来】【就】【是】【错】【误】【的】，【三】【个】【联】【合】【起】【来】【的】【文】【明】【种】【族】【在】【经】【过】【一】【些】【列】【的】【晋】【升】【仪】【式】【后】，【只】【能】【可】【耻】【的】【晋】【升】【失】【败】【了】，【他】【们】【还】【以】【为】【是】【准】【备】【的】【不】【够】【充】【分】【想】【着】【再】【试】【一】【次】。 【这】【时】【华】【夏】【文】【明】【的】【布】【置】【完】【成】【了】